How To Ride Your Scooter on Xiaoliuqiu and Not Die (and other Scooter info on Xiaoliuqiu)

Getting around Xiaoliuqiu by scooter is practically essential - the island is small enough to circle in about 20 minutes by scooter, but many distances are too far to walk comfortably, especially in the summer heat. Some of the island's hills make foot travel even more challenging than you'd expect.

A scooter becomes absolutely essential if you're booking activities with vendors, as many will ask you to meet at their shop and then provide your own transport to the activity location. They're not willing to wait 30 minutes for you to walk there, so having wheels is crucial for making the most of your time on the island.



But before you zip off into the sunset, there are some crucial things you need to know to keep yourself safe on these winding coastal roads.

Over the past couple years, I've heard of two fatalities on the island, and they both happened in eerily similar ways: someone going too fast collided with another rider making a turn without looking. These tragedies were completely preventable, and that's why I'm writing this guide.

Before You Even Start the Engine

Document everything about your rental scooter. Take photos or video of the entire scooter from all angles before you leave the rental shop. If there's any existing damage, you'll have proof that it was already there when you picked it up. This simple step can save you from disputes and unexpected charges later.



Know your scooter inside and out. Before you ride off, make sure you understand how everything works—the throttle, brakes, lights, turn signals, and kickstand. Check that the tires are properly inflated and everything functions correctly. Don't be shy about asking the rental staff to show you anything you're unsure about.

Practice Makes Perfect (and Safer)

Understanding Scooter Licenses, Rental Options, and Pricing

The licensing situation on Xiaoliuqiu can be confusing, so here's the complete breakdown of what you can legally rent and what it costs:

• No license whatsoever: You can rent an electric bike or small electric scooter. Some electric bikes can accommodate a child passenger, but the small e-scooters are limited to one person only. Both options are speed-capped at 25-30 km/h. Cost: around NT$400 per 24-hour period.

• Car driver's license from your home country + International Driving Permit (IDP): You can rent a large electric scooter which seats two passengers comfortably. Cost: NT$500 per 24-hour period.



• Motorcycle license from your home country + IDP: You can rent a standard 125cc gas scooter which seats two passengers. This gives you more power and range than the electric options.

Now for the uncomfortable truth: adherence to these laws is lax with some rental shops. Those old ladies offering scooter services right when you get off the ferry might be able to accommodate you even if you have no license at all. But just know—this is not legal. If you get into an accident or get stopped by police without proper licensing, you'll face serious consequences and your insurance won't cover you. Don't do it.

The Non-Negotiables

Wear a helmet. Period. I know a lot of people think they ride safely, and maybe they do. But you need a helmet to protect yourself from other scooters and cars on the road. You can control your own riding, but you can't control theirs. Your brain is the most important organ in your body, and a helmet is a small price to pay for protecting it. Plus, police do occasionally set up helmet checks on the island, and the fines aren't worth it.



Pretend no one sees you. Because sometimes they really don't. This defensive driving mindset has saved me countless times. Never assume other drivers are paying attention or will yield to you.

The Art of Driving Slowly



The official speed limit is 30 km/h, though I'll admit that 40 km/h feels pretty safe if you're comfortable breaking the law slightly. But here's the thing: there have been two fatalities in recent years, both involving riders going too fast who couldn't stop in time when someone turned without looking. Speed kills, especially on an island where turning habits are... let's say "creative" and scooters and cars seem to come out of nowhere.

And there's another reason to keep your speed down: stray dogs and cats. Xiaoliuqiu has plenty of them, and many dogs are unleashed. When you have a nice straight stretch of road with no one around, it's tempting to open up the throttle. But that's exactly when a dog or cat might rush onto the road without looking both ways—basically copying the locals but with way more enthusiasm. These animals create dangerous situations that require sudden braking, so resist the urge to go fast even when the road looks clear.



Mastering the Xiaoliuqiu Turn (This Could Save Your Life)

Understanding how locals turn on Xiaoliuqiu is perhaps the most important skill you can learn. This turning style is common in rural Taiwan, but if you're not expecting it, it can be deadly.

Right turns: Locals don't always look left to check for oncoming traffic. Instead, they turn into the far right part of the lane and then slowly merge in after completing the turn, often without looking.



Left turns: This is where it gets really interesting—and dangerous. Riders will turn left and stay on the most left side of the entire road so they're not in the way of traffic coming the opposite way. The only time they care about where others are on the road is when they merge into the correct lane. Sometimes they don't even check properly—they just assume other drivers will see them coming.

The principle here: assume nobody sees you, assume people aren't stopping for you, and assume people aren't looking where they're going.

The Intersection Problem

Intersections on Xiaoliuqiu are particularly confusing because no one seems to know who has the right of way. The island only installed its first traffic signal this year, and it's not even the standard red-yellow-green type—it's just to indicate who has the right of way. I've seen the aftermath of several accidents that happened at intersections. Approach every intersection with extreme caution, slow down significantly, and scan in all directions multiple times.



Personal Accident Stories (Learn From These Mistakes)

These aren't hypothetical warnings—these are real accidents that happened to real people on Xiaoliuqiu.

• Accident #1 (My first experience): I was turning left with my indicator on, and the person behind me tried to pass me as I was mid-turn. I hit that scooter and fell off mine. Fortunately, some of the fall was cushioned by my wetsuit, so it wasn't that bad. But even with signals, you can't assume people will respect your space. This behavior is so ingrained that it happens even in cars—recently I was driving and making a legal left turn in the middle of the road. Scooters were still passing me on the left side, in the opposite lane, while I was actively turning. Always check your mirrors and maybe add a look over your shoulder in the direction you're turning. Check out the video I did on the accident here.

• Accident #2 (My worst experience): Someone stopped on the right side of the road started making a U-turn without looking to see if anyone was coming. I was going 50 km/h—too fast to stop on a dime. I needed to stop very suddenly to avoid hitting them, and the scooter collapsed and fell on my foot. I couldn't walk properly for two months and couldn't teach freediving during that time. The lesson? Watch for stopped scooters—they might move without warning. And maybe don't go 50 km/h.

• Accident #3 (A friend's recent accident): This one is sobering. A friend was coming down a hill at night when another driver—who had allegedly been drinking that evening—went up the hill in her lane, driving the wrong way. She was able to swerve out of his way, but the fall shattered bones in her leg. Her injuries were so severe that she had to be transported off the island via ambulance ship and underwent surgery just two days later. She'll be bedridden for two months, and it'll be a year before she's at 100% with walking again. This accident highlights two critical points: night riding is exponentially more dangerous, and drunk drivers exist on this island. Drive extra defensively after dark.

• Almost Accident #4 (My recent close call): Like many places in Taiwan, Xiaoliuqiu has small alleys and side streets that branch off from the main roads, often with obstructions blocking the view. People emerging from these alleys don't approach the main road slowly and cautiously—instead, they'll zoom pretty quickly into the road, often shooting out halfway into traffic when making a left turn. This happened to me just last week and led to a hard braking situation. It's one of those things that happens frequently enough that you need to be ready for it. When passing alleys and side streets, always be prepared for someone to blast out without warning.

Look Both Ways, All the Time

Seriously, look both ways constantly. Before turning, check your mirrors and look over your shoulder. When approaching intersections, scan in all directions. That scooter you didn't see could be the one that hits you.

Watch Out for Cement Trucks

There are a couple of cement trucks that operate on the island, and they sometimes are the fastest vehicles on the road despite their size. They also make highly illegal passes—crossing double yellow lines and overtaking in intersections. If you see a cement truck, give it a wide berth and let it pass. Your pride isn't worth getting crushed by several tons of concrete mixer.

The Petrol Situation

There's only one petrol station on Xiaoliuqiu, and it closes at 5:30 PM. If you're renting for just a few days, you typically don't need to fill up before returning the scooter. For longer rentals, you might need to refuel. Always double-check the policy with your rental company so you're not left scrambling at the last minute.

Final Thoughts

Xiaoliuqiu is an incredible island to explore by scooter. The coastal views, the freedom to stop wherever you want, the wind in your hair (under your helmet)—it's all amazing. But none of that matters if you end up in the hospital or worse.



Ride defensively, ride slowly, wear your helmet, and assume everyone around you is about to do something unpredictable. Because on Xiaoliuqiu, they probably are.

Stay safe out there, and enjoy the ride.